Comfortable AND Fashionable Adapted Jeans

Back-to-school means new clothes. Jeans are the fashion choice for most kids. But for kids in wheelchairs or with feeding tubes, the waistbands on many jeans can be uncomfortable. How do we help our kids go back to school in style AND comfort?

A couple years ago, Junior’s mom posted this great tutorial on adapting jeans on her blog, Adaptions4Kidz. She has so many fantastic ideas there! If you haven’t bookmarked her site, I highly recommend that.

But there are decorative features on jeans that my daughter wanted preserved, so we came up with a slight variation to adapting jeans that made her happier and feeling very stylish. This variation also works well with junior girls’ tops that are shorter in length than boys’ t-shirts. Let’s celebrate back to school with some comfortable and fashion-forward (sh-h-h-h...pull-on) jeans!

Three pairs of adapted jeans

 You’ll need:

·        1 pair jeans

·        1 pair worn pull-on stretch pants or yoga pants (okay if they show wear in the knees or crotch, as these will be discarded. We recycled last year’s stretch pants)

·        Thread, seam ripper, sewing machine, serger (optional but nice)

1) Prepare the jeans.

·        Pick out the lower end of any belt loops using a seam ripper, being careful not to nick holes in the fabric. Cut off the remainder of the belt loop/s and discard.

 

·        Cut out the zipper, snipping away the zipper tape. Be sure to remove all teeth, the zipper stops at both ends, and the pull. This decreases bulk and increases comfort.



·        Stay-stitch (stitch straight through all layers to hold together) the front half of the jeans about ¼” below the waistband stitching to secure the fly and pockets.

Stay-stitch 1/4" below waistband seam

 

·        Cut off the waistband where it attaches to the pants. Cut above your stay-stitching.

2) Sew jeans openings closed.

·        (Optional, to simplify dressing) Pin pockets closed and stitch just next to the decorative topstitching on the pocket, through all layers. Your stitching will be hidden in the shadows of the commercial topstitching, especially if you use thread that matches the color of the denim. Stitching the pockets closed keeps them smooth and flat when dressing.

Stitch just beside the decorative stitching. Here, the
presser foot is removed so you can see the needle position.

·        Fuse pocket bag to inside of front leg. Use a permanent fusible adhesive web, such as Heat N Bond, following the manufacturer’s directions. This keeps the pocket bag from riding up inside the pants.

Add the fusible webbing between the pocket bag
and front leg. Fuse with an iron according to
manufacturer's direction.

·        Pin fly closed and stitch. Follow beside the decorative stitching on both the right and left sides of the fly to secure it completely flat.

3) Attach knit waistband.

·        From discarded pull-on pants, cut down 2” to 2 ½” from top of waistband. This will add about 1” in height from the original jean's waistband, helping prevent exposure of undergarments. Enough said. If your original jeans are cut very low, you might choose an even deeper portion of the stretch fabric. Smaller children may require smaller depths.

For a teen, 2-2.5" of knit waistband and fabric
will probably be appropriate. Feel free to vary the width
for your child's needs.

·        Right sides together, match knit waistband to jeans at back, front, and sides. Pin as needed and sew with a 3/8” seam. Be careful not to sew over any decorative rivets in the jeans so you don’t break a needle.

·        (Optional) If you own a serger, overcast the seam for strength and comfort. Otherwise, overcast with a triple zigzag stitch on your sewing machine.

My daughter's service-dog-in-training, Mercer, holds down
the waistband so you can see the overcasting inside.

 

There you have it. In 15-20 minutes, you have converted a pair of fashionable but restrictive jeans into fashionable and comfortable ones. All the decorative pockets and stitching are preserved, with the exception of the waistband. You’ve put those outgrown stretch pants to good use for another year as well.

 

 

 

 

 

DIY Disposable Swim Pants for the Larger Swimmer

Summer's just around the corner...is your older child ready for swimming? You have a few weeks still to dust off your sewing machine and whip up some disposable swim pants.

Can't find disposable swim pants to fit your larger child?
These will fit a 34" hip or 85 pounds.

There are times when disposable swim pants are an ideal solution for swimmers who must wear incontinence protection. They travel easily to summer camp or on vacation where laundering cloth swim pants would be impossible. Some pools require swim pants for children with continence issues.

Even bigger kids can benefit from these handy disposable pants. These adapted swim pants fit up to a size 34” hip or 85 pounds. They can be made in less than 5 minutes a pair.

Note:  I have no vested interest in the Huggies brand shown; it is simply one available in my area. Feel free to substitute with brands you have locally. The brand I’ve used can withstand a few trips through the washer and dryer to extend their use over several wearings (just make sure the Velcro sides are closed before you start the wash, as with all things Velcro). Cool!

Materials needed:

1 pair disposable swim pants, size 4-5T 

1 pair disposable pull-on pants with hook-and-loop side openings, size 4-5T or larger

Sewing machine, thread, scissors

Step One:

Cut side stretch panels off Pull-Ups where they are fused to the main absorbant pant. These will become side extensions to add up to 4” of unstretched width to each side of the swim pant for a total of 8" of added width!

Pull the two sections of each side panel apart and set aside. Do not throw the absorbent main section away, as it can be used to line the inside of another diaper when extra protection is needed (at night, on an airplane, when spending a long day at the mall…).

Cut open the side panels of the swim pants where they are fused to one another. Leave the fused “seam allowance" attached to one side, as this adds ¼” extra width to each side.

The red arrows show the fused seam allowance still attached
to provide a little more width.

Step Two:

Lay one side panel of the Pull-Up face up on the sewing machine bed. Velcro side up, overlap the front side panel of the swim pant by ¼”, matching top and bottom edges. Stitch down the overlapped edge with a plain or 2-step zigzag stitch set at a wide, long stitch.

Wahoo! Pinless sewing... We're aiming for speed and utility here.

I prefer a 2-step zigzag at 2.0 length and 6.0 width. The 2-step zigzag stitch will not tunnel. A 3-step zigzag is commonly found on most machines and will work also; it's just a tad slower to sew out.

This is a "2-step zigzag" stitch, which keeps the stitches from
pulling into a tunnel.

Repeat for second front side panel.

Step Three:

Overlap the longer side panel from the Pull-Up onto the swim pants back panel and zigzag into place. Make sure the Pull-Up is facing up and the Velcro tape is facing down.

If the shape of the extension is longer than the panel on the swim pant, it can simply be cut off after it is sewn.

Repeat for second back panel.

That’s it! In one quick afternoon you can whip up a whole package of large-sized disposable swim pants to take your child through the summer. Now your older child is ready to slip a swimsuit over their protective disposable swim pants and hit the beach or pool insecurity and style!

 Happy swimming!

If you found this tutorial helpful, please share it with a friend. Let's make life a little easier for all those terrific moms and kids who are adapting their lives creatively!

Sewing Clothes for G-tube Access, Part Two: BLANK CANVAS

PART TWO:  G-TUBE OPENINGS ON A BLANK CANVAS

Lots of easy-to-sew patterns for children (and adults, too!) are made of flat pieces of fabric. One-piece sleepers, A-line dresses, and some overalls and jumpsuits are designed like this. These make a nice “blank canvas” for adding a g-tube access opening.

In addition, some designs sewn with soft, flat seams can be treated as a single piece of flat fabric.

Here are some examples:

To sew welted pocket flaps on this style of garment, we’ll be borrowing much of the same technique used in the tutorial for our g-tube jammies. You can either use our pocket flap pattern template or create your own. I’ll explain how! If you need inspiration for pocket designs, check out the imaginative, informative pocket tutorial series by LiEr at Ikat Bag.

In addition to the supplies needed to sew your garment of choice, you will need the following for each pocket flap:

--a 6 x 9” (or larger, depending on your personal design) piece of fabric, either self-fabric or a contrast color

--a 6 x 9” (or larger, to match changes you made in the fashion fabric size) piece of tricot iron-on interfacing

--3/4” Scotch tape

--a button

--optional trims:  ribbon, braid, lace, ruffles

A note on terms: The edges of this opening are called a welt, just so you know what I am referring to when I say “welt opening.” The fabric that binds the edges of the opening are the lips of the welt; the decorative flap covering the opening is the pocket flap.

Belly button would be about where the dotted red lines cross.
The red circle is about where the g-tuis is located.

1. Mark the position for your g-tube opening after you have cut out the pieces for your garment. If it helps with planning, know that a child’s natural belly button falls generally at or just below where the “waistline” marking on patterns meets the center front. Unfortunately, many pattern companies don't mark the waist on pattern, but the "lengthen/shorten" line is often located at the waist. Transfer the length and angle of the slit onto the garment piece with a wash-away marker or dry sliver of soap. DO NOT CUT OPEN.

2. Prepare the welt and pocket flap pieces. Iron the tricot interfacing to the back of the piece of coordinating fabric. The directions with the iron-on interfacing will give you specific heat and time settings for the brand you are using.

If you use our downloaded pattern, cut out the pieces; you should have two pocket flaps and one welt opening. Across the center of the wrong side of the welt opening fabric, stick one 4” piece of ¾” wide tape (Scotch tape is fine...I outlined mine just to help with the photography).

4" strip of 3/4" Scotch tape stuck on the interfaced side
of the welt fabric

Note: If you design your own pattern, draw the rectangle for the welt pattern the width of your mark PLUS 1.5”. It will be 3” high. For your own design, use a piece of ¾” wide Scotch tape the length of your marking, centered in the rectangle of the welt fabric.

3. Sew the welt opening. In most cases, you will want to apply the welted opening before sewing the garment. This allows you to work on a flat piece of fabric, which is easiest. If you will be applying the welt opening over a seam sewn flat, note that you want to join the garment pieces that make up this seam first and then complete the welted pocket flap opening.

Center the welt fabric, right side together with the right side of the garment fabric, along this line. Pin in place and stitch a box along the outer edge of the Scotch tape, using shorter stitches at the corners. Peel away the tape.

Carefully slit the fabric in the center of the box in a line along the center of the box you just stitched, stopping about ½” from each end. Cut in an angle from each end of the slit to the corners, coming right up to but not through the stitching (see the pattern for a cutting guide). Press flat.

The blue lines show where to slit the welt and garment fabric.

Turn the welt opening through the stitched box to the wrong side. Smooth the fabric so the seam allowances meet at the slit and the welt fabric folds around the seam allowances. Press flat.

This view shows the inside of the garment, where the
folds of the lips meet at the center.

Fold the garment piece back at one end so the triangle of fabric formed when you slit the stitched box is extending out.

Stitch carefully right over the stitching at the end of the box through the end of the welt, being careful to hold the main garment fabric out of the way of your stitching.

Press the welt flat. Stitch with a zigzag (I prefer the “double zigzag stitch” that takes a stitch halfway along each let) about 1/8” away from the outside of the welt.

For  a more tailored look, you might prefer to stitch right in
the well of the seam where the welt and garment fabrics meet.
Another option would be to topstitch 1/8" away from the seam edges,
creating a tidy box around the welt.

Trim the long ends on each side of the welt and round the corners.

4) Add the pocket flap. The pocket flap serves a number of functions:  to cover the opening, to keep the welt from gapping (br-r-r-r), and to provide a decorative accent. Whether using the pocket pattern or a design of your own, sew around all sides but the top with a ¼” seam allowance and clip the corners or curves. Now is the time to sew lace or a ruffle between the layers if you plan to insert it.

Sew pieces right sides together; clip corners.

Turn right sides out, press flat, and topstitch a scant ¼” from the edge. If you are applying braid, rickrack, lace, or other trims on top of the flap, sew them down now. Mark the buttonhole placement and stitch out the buttonhole. Pin the pocket flap right sides against the top edge of the top welt, pointing away from the welts. Stitch across what is now the bottom edge of the pocket flap with a ¼” seam allowance.

Anchor down the pocket flap seam allowance with a zigzag stitch. Fold the flap down, press thoroughly, and stitch down a generous 1/8” to hold the flap flat. Mark for the button placement and sew on a cute button.

Ta-da! A finished welted g-tube opening with a pocket flap.

An APPLIQUE FLAP is sewn in much the same way. You will follow steps 1 and 2 above:  mark the garment and prepare the welt fabric. Step 3, sewing the lips of the welt opening, is nearly the same, with the addition of a small button and button loop. The other materials you need remain the same, except you’ll be substituting an appliqué in place of a pocket flap.

You can purchase an appliqué or create your own. It simply needs to be large enough to cover the lips of the welt opening. Purchased appliqués can be used as is. If you make an appliqué, be sure to a combination of fabric, interfacing, and heavy leave-in stabilizer to give it enough body. Cut cleanly around the edges.

Also, you can use a fake patch pocket as an appliqué. Get some great design ideas at the pocket tutorial series on Ikat Bag. Since this pocket will be “freestanding,” being anchored on only two sides, the simplest way to create the pocket is to sew two same-shaped pieces right sides together. Interface if needed for body. Stitch around ALL sides, clip the corners, make a small slit in the lining piece. Turn right sides out through the slit and whipstitch the slit closed by hand. Add ornamental trimming and topstitching. Later when you attach the pocket, you can also stitch a line for a false “hem” at the top if you like.

3. Sew the welt opening with slight adjustments for the appliqué.  While the main steps for sewing the welt opening will follow the process outlined for pocket flaps, you will need to add a small button loop and button to hold the welt lips closed. For this, use a small ponytail band  (about 1” circle) and a small flat button.

This size ponytail band works well. But
CAUTION! Cut off that metal clamp!

Before you attach the welt piece to your fabric, pinch the ponytail band into a 1.25” loop and anchor at the center of the mark on your fabric with a piece of tape. [Note: if your elastic band has a metal closure, clip it off before trying to sew. No point in breaking a needle!!] The end that will loop around the button should face UP from the mark. When you sew on the welt piece, you will stitch right through the elastic band. Backstitch and trace your forward stitches several times over the area where the band extends upwards to be sure is it caught.

The loop is taped in place for sewing. On this sample,
the ends could have been cut shorter.

Continue sewing the welt opening as explained in the previous section.

When you slit the welt open, you can cut through the ponytail band but be sure to leave about ¼” tails.

After the welt is complete, add a small button to the lower lip.

Completed welt is ready for the applique over the top.

4. Apply an appliqué in place of the pocket flap. The appliqué will center over the welt opening to cover it. Secure the appliqué by stitching along the edge of its upper half. Follow the shaping of the edge. For a false pocket, stitch across the top of the pocket an inch or so below the edge to create a false “hem.” Be sure to backstitch at both ends of your stitching!

Pins mark the backstitching at either end of the line of stitching
that holds the applique in place.

The appliqué lifts at the lower outer corner. To secure the flap when not in use, sew Velcro under the corner of the appliqué. You can stitch the hook side by machine to the garment. Use invisible hand stitches to attach the loop Velcro inside the appliqué.

Here's a peek under the applique. A square of Velcro
sewn to the point of the heart and the garment fabric
will hold it flat when not in use.

I hope you are inspired to sew up some welted g-tube access openings on clothes for your little cutie! Let me know how it goes...


Other posts you might find helpful:

G-tube jammies tutorial

Sewing Clothes for G-tube Access, Part One: DESIGN

Sewing Clothes for G-tube Access, Part One: DESIGN

PART ONE:  DESIGN

Parents can be amazingly creative. When faced with the challenge of dressing children that eat through g-tubes, they come up with some pretty clever solutions!

Two-piece outfits, such as a shirt and pants or blouse and skirt, tend to give convenient access to the tummy. Most of my daughter’s current wardrobe falls into this two-piece category. It also is a standard way for dressing boys.

But there are times that two-piece outfits just don’t work. Babies and toddlers wear onesies or one-piece pajama sleepers (actually, plenty of older kids do too!). They wear overalls or jumpsuits, especially when learning to crawl or playing often on the floor, because the one-piece outfits are comfortable during all that busy activity. Dresses, whether special occasion or otherwise, are one piece by their very design.

Let’s face it…there’s just something a little less than delicate about crawling up through layers of petticoats and skirts to hook up your daughter’s g-tube. And if she wears a feeding pump in a backpack, tubing that dangles from a skirt hem is just asking for an accident.

Or what about little boys? Boys can be a little less complicated (did I really say less complicated??) because their clothing tends to come as two-piece outfits. And most overalls allow relatively easy side access (many of the commercial overalls my daughters wore were GREAT for g-tube access). Even boys, though, sometimes wear clothes that don’t offer much access to the stomach.

So, what do we do?

There are some clever commercial solutions: Tummy Tunnels, Grab-a-Scab fabric stickers (read a brilliant post on this at Adaptions 4 Kidz), both of which are ironed on to create a “patch” with an opening for g-tube access. These can be applied to off-the-rack clothing, require no sewing, and come in cute styles. But they are a little conspicuous, can be a bit juvenile for older kids, and only work on flat areas of fabric.

If you sew or know of someone who does, a world of creative possibilities for g-tube access unfolds. You can create functional openings that are tailored-and-classy, cute decorative focal points (without even hinting at the presence of a g-tube), or completely hidden. These options are available to work with many children’s sewing patterns, whether on areas of flat fabric or on gathers and pleats. The possibilities are endless!

Let’s get started…

First choose your pattern. We’ll talk about three styles:

1) “Blank canvas.” These styles offer a smooth, flat area of fabric over the g-tube area. Sample “blank canvas” styles include some overalls or coveralls, A-line dresses or jumpers (using American terminology here) and many sleepers:

One last great feature of “blank canvas” designs—most any garment in this category, whether purchased or sewn at home, can be retrofitted with a g-tube access enclosure after it is made!

2) Flat seamline. These styles provide a seam near the g-tube where two flat pieces of fabric join. Examples of these “flat seam” patterns are princess-seam dresses, some tailored dresses, and some overalls and coveralls:

3) Gathered seamline. For this style of pattern, gathered fabric is sewn to a flat panel at a seam near the g-tube. It requires a slightly different method for creating an opening than the flat seamline. Many dresses feature full gathered skirts attached to a smooth-fitted top section; girls’ jumpsuits are also often constructed this way:

Second, choose the opening style. What look do you want? Something sporty? Something cute? Something inconspicuous?

Keep in mind that pocket flaps can be tailored, sporty, cut in cute shapes, or create interest with fun buttons.

Appliqués can be part of a cute design (i.e.: the flowerpot below a fun flower, the boat below a sail) or made from shaped lace (purchased in the bridal section of the fabric store or stitched out with your home embroidery machine, if you are so fortunate). They can even be designed to look like a working pocket!

Sashes (and cummerbunds, for your little ring bearer) are wide bands of fabric, very often gathered, that lift up to reveal a secret opening. Overlays also lift up, and can be designed as plain panels or as false vest or jacket fronts.

Next, sketch your options.  If you are artistic, grab a pencil and paper and start drawing away! You might find good inspiration from a pattern catalog. There are lots of online options if you want some ideas (http://www.sewingpatterns.com/ has catalogs for all the major pattern companies, or go directly to the manufacturer websites).

If you prefer, you can also print out the line drawings found with patterns by larger commercial pattern makers. Use these blanks to sketch out your options.

Keep in mind the placement of your child’s g-tube when you plan the location of the opening. Some people like the opening right over the top of the g-tube. Other people like openings offset to the side or below, finding that it reduces the chance for accidentally catching. These are your creations—feel free to design them in a way that works for your child.

As you sketch your ideas, remember to keep balance and proportion in your design. You need room to maneuver the tubing, so plan a wide enough opening for your fingers, but don’t overwhelm your small child with a giant appliqué. Remember that many tailored designs are symmetrical, so you will want a second mock pocket flap on the right side to balance out the functional flap on the left.

Last, familiarize yourself with the sewing steps for the pattern style and g-tube access treatment you’ve chosen.  We’ll go over these sewing steps in the next few parts of this tutorial. I’ll post the second part today, where we go over the steps for applying pocket flaps and appliqués to a blank canvas. See you back here in a little while!

 Happy sketching!

Wheelchair Rain Poncho Tutorial

Thanks so much for your patience waiting for this tutorial! It has been a comedy of errors, but finally, it's here just for you! Drum roll please...

* * * * * * * *

The rainy season has hit the Pacific Northwest with a vengeance! This Wheelchair Rain Poncho is just the answer to keep kids and their wheelchairs dry as they brave the rain squalls. It can be made with a polar fleece lining if you deal with snow or cold temperatures where you live.

For this sample, I used “utility cloth” from Joann Fabrics sold for making
waterproof diaper covers. It’s very soft and drapes well.

Here is one made from nylon. Notice how the back
can also be tucked in without interfering with sitting.

This hooded rain poncho is one-size-fits-most-kids. Feel free to adjust the measurements to fit your wheelchair user.

Features that make this poncho handy are:

• a waterproof outer fabric to keep rain off and fabric choices to make the inside varying levels of cozy-warm;

• corner tucks that keep the poncho snuggled around the knees for a drier, warmer lap;

• the ability to fold completely flat for storing in a backpack;

• a shortened back length. It’s long enough to keep the wearer’s back dry, along with any tote bags hanging off the back of the wheelchair, but short enough not to interfere with push handles (a longer-backed variation is described at the end). It can also tuck between the wearer's back and the seat without interfering with sitting;

• simple sewing.

Please note that this pattern is for personal use only. Thanks!

Materials:

• 1 5/8 yd 58-60” wide waterproof outerwear fabric (slicker vinyl, oilcloth, waterproofed nylon, “utility fabric” or other)

• 2 ½ yd 42-44” wide flannel (be safe and buy 2 5/8 yards to allow for shrinkage)
-- OR – 1 5/8 yd 60” fleece for warmer poncho (note: if using fleece, the extra bulk may require you to sew slightly deeper seam allowances. If you own a serger, this is a great time to use it, as serging nicely compresses the bulky seam allowances of fleece)

• 2 large snaps (use the prong type rather than sew-in. Attach using whatever method you prefer; I like a hammer and a wooden spool)

• Thread to match

• TEST YOUR PRESSER FOOT on the selvage edge of your outdoor fabric to see if you might need a Teflon or roller foot to keep the waterproof fabric from sticking…or use this clever masking tape trick

• Pattern for hood and neck template. When printing both files, select PAGE SCALING > NONE. The pages of the hood overlap so you can line them up correctly. The taped paper will measure 15.25 x 18.5” before you cut out the pattern piece.

Prepare fabric and cut pieces

1) Prewash flannel. The outerwear fabric or polyester polar fleece does not need prewashing.

2) Cut the outer fabric to 45” x 60” (it’s okay to fudge a bit on this, so don’t sweat it if straightening the edges makes your fabric a titch smaller). Trace around a dinner plate (mine is 10.5” across) to round the corners; cut off excess. Use the trimmed outer fabric as the pattern for cutting the lining fabric to match.

3) If your lining is flannel, you will need to seam two 1 ¼ yd lengths together along the selvage edge. First cut off the selvages and then stitch the two lengths with a ¼” seam. Press the seam open and topstitch down each side of the seam to hold the allowances flat.

The underside of the seam after it has been pressed open
and topstitched from the top side.

Lay the outer fabric on this, aligning one short end of the outer fabric close to one of the selvage ends and leaving room to cut the hood pieces from the other.

Use the trimmed outer fabric as your pattern. Note that the seam
on the flannel lining will fall just across the top of the chest.
The scraps from the hood pattern are simply to show you
how the two hood pieces will fit when you double over the excess lining.

4) Cut 2 hood pieces from outer fabric and lining fabric. Mark notches with a 1/8” snip. [Note: the neck opening accommodates a head size up to 23". If your child will need a larger neck opening, taper the back neck seam out from the curve to the neck edge. Increase the neck opening by tracing around an 8 1/2” salad plate instead of the printable template].

Sew body of poncho

Note: Any time you sew two unlike fabrics together, it is especially important to practice on scraps. You need to work out the best combination to encourage your particular fabrics to cooperate. For example, I found my pair for the tutorial—a plastic-coated knit “utility fabric” and cotton flannel—worked best if I sewed with the flannel on top, pinning inside the seam allowances (and I rarely use pins). Your mileage may vary…test, test, test!

Practice with scraps cut from the fabrics as you squared up
your rectangles or cut out the hood pieces.

1) Pin layers right side together, running pins parallel to the cut edges and within ¼” of them.
Using a long stitch length, stitch both layers, right sides together, with a 1/4” seam. Leave an 8” opening on one short end for turning the layers right sides out. This will become the back edge. Be sure to backstitch at both ends of the opening.

2) Clip seam allowance at corners if necessary. Turn the poncho right sides out through the opening. Use your fingernail to crease the seam allowance at the opening to the inside.

3) Topstitch a scant ¼” in around the entire outer edge.

Sew hood

1) Sew left and right outer hood pieces right sides together. Use your thumbnail to press both seam allowances to one side. Repeat for the lining, but press seam allowances in the opposite each other (note: fleece will be bulky. You will need to cut down one of the seam allowances to reduce that bulk).

2) Meet hood and lining right sides together. The center seams should lock together where they meet because the seam allowances have been pressed in opposite directions. Sew around face opening with a 1/4” seam, turn right sides out, and topstitch.

3) Baste neck edge together a scant ¼” from the edge, wrong sides together, matching notches and using long stitches.

Attach hood

1) Fold poncho skirt lengthwise and mark the center line on the lining with disappearing markings. Measure 12” from the back edge and place the edge of the neck template pattern on this mark, centering it over the center line. Trace around the pattern, marking notches. Pin the layers together with pins IN THE CENTER of the circle you have made.

Notice the teeny white dots inside the soap-marked circle--these are the pin heads.
Pinning inside the circle keeps pin holes to a minimum, preventing leaks.
The soap sliver used to mark the fabric is highlighted with a red arrow.

Sew right on the traced circle with basting stitches. Cut out the inside of the circle, leaving a ¼” seam allowance inside your stitching (see the pattern if you are not sure where to trim). Clip notches 1/8” deep into the seam allowance.


2) Match center back of hood with center back marking on poncho, right sides together. Carefully pin hood inside seam allowance from the center back to the front matching clip at center front. Front edges should overlap about 1” at the center front. Stitch all the way around the neck edge using a ¼” seam allowance, stitching just outside the basting stitches.

Pin holes allow water to penetrate, so any pinning must be done
inside the seam allowances with pins running parallel to the edge.

3) Press all seam allowances out from the neck edge, using your thumbnail. Topstitch through all layers 1/8” from seam to secure seam allowances.

 For easiest, flattest, most accurate topstitching around the neck,
sew from the right side, checking underneath the seam often
to make sure it is catching under the needle.
Sew with the curve rather than stretching the seam straight.

Carefully trim any excess seam allowance next to the stitching, being careful not to nick the lining.



Attach snaps

1) The placement of snaps in the front corners of the poncho skirt gives you a custom fit that keeps the poncho in place around the legs. Measure across the front of the wheelchair’s leg supports and add 6-8” to that measurement for ease.

Mark half this measurement from the center fold, 2" up from the hem. Then fold the corner diagonally (along the red line in the diagram) to determine where the other half of the snap will be placed.

You might want to use office clips for a trial fit, and then mark the snap placement with a grease pencil on oilcloth/vinyl.

2) Attach the snaps 2” in from the hem edge at the place along the corner that makes the poncho fit your child’s lap. Important--be sure the working parts of the snap face out!

Notice how the ball and socket face away from the outer fabric.

When you snap the parts together, this forms a tuck behind the snap that creates the corner.

Create a tuck under the snap to make the corner that keeps the poncho snug against the lap.

If your child uses an extra tall headrest or wants more back protection for a motorized wheelchair, go ahead and add extra length to the back. You’ll need an extra 1 ¼ yard each of the outer fabric and flannel (or fleece) lining. Sewing the extra length to the back 12” down from the neck opening should put the seam where it is unlikely to get doused with the hardest rain.


That’s it! Now your child is ready to head out into the rain (or snow!). I'd love to hear how your poncho-sewing experience goes. Let me know if you have any questions.

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Split-back Wheelchair Jacket