Wheelchair Rain Poncho Tutorial

Thanks so much for your patience waiting for this tutorial! It has been a comedy of errors, but finally, it's here just for you! Drum roll please...

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The rainy season has hit the Pacific Northwest with a vengeance! This Wheelchair Rain Poncho is just the answer to keep kids and their wheelchairs dry as they brave the rain squalls. It can be made with a polar fleece lining if you deal with snow or cold temperatures where you live.

For this sample, I used “utility cloth” from Joann Fabrics sold for making
waterproof diaper covers. It’s very soft and drapes well.

Here is one made from nylon. Notice how the back
can also be tucked in without interfering with sitting.

This hooded rain poncho is one-size-fits-most-kids. Feel free to adjust the measurements to fit your wheelchair user.

Features that make this poncho handy are:

• a waterproof outer fabric to keep rain off and fabric choices to make the inside varying levels of cozy-warm;

• corner tucks that keep the poncho snuggled around the knees for a drier, warmer lap;

• the ability to fold completely flat for storing in a backpack;

• a shortened back length. It’s long enough to keep the wearer’s back dry, along with any tote bags hanging off the back of the wheelchair, but short enough not to interfere with push handles (a longer-backed variation is described at the end). It can also tuck between the wearer's back and the seat without interfering with sitting;

• simple sewing.

Please note that this pattern is for personal use only. Thanks!

Materials:

• 1 5/8 yd 58-60” wide waterproof outerwear fabric (slicker vinyl, oilcloth, waterproofed nylon, “utility fabric” or other)

• 2 ½ yd 42-44” wide flannel (be safe and buy 2 5/8 yards to allow for shrinkage)
-- OR – 1 5/8 yd 60” fleece for warmer poncho (note: if using fleece, the extra bulk may require you to sew slightly deeper seam allowances. If you own a serger, this is a great time to use it, as serging nicely compresses the bulky seam allowances of fleece)

• 2 large snaps (use the prong type rather than sew-in. Attach using whatever method you prefer; I like a hammer and a wooden spool)

• Thread to match

• TEST YOUR PRESSER FOOT on the selvage edge of your outdoor fabric to see if you might need a Teflon or roller foot to keep the waterproof fabric from sticking…or use this clever masking tape trick

• Pattern for hood and neck template. When printing both files, select PAGE SCALING > NONE. The pages of the hood overlap so you can line them up correctly. The taped paper will measure 15.25 x 18.5” before you cut out the pattern piece.

Prepare fabric and cut pieces

1) Prewash flannel. The outerwear fabric or polyester polar fleece does not need prewashing.

2) Cut the outer fabric to 45” x 60” (it’s okay to fudge a bit on this, so don’t sweat it if straightening the edges makes your fabric a titch smaller). Trace around a dinner plate (mine is 10.5” across) to round the corners; cut off excess. Use the trimmed outer fabric as the pattern for cutting the lining fabric to match.

3) If your lining is flannel, you will need to seam two 1 ¼ yd lengths together along the selvage edge. First cut off the selvages and then stitch the two lengths with a ¼” seam. Press the seam open and topstitch down each side of the seam to hold the allowances flat.

The underside of the seam after it has been pressed open
and topstitched from the top side.

Lay the outer fabric on this, aligning one short end of the outer fabric close to one of the selvage ends and leaving room to cut the hood pieces from the other.

Use the trimmed outer fabric as your pattern. Note that the seam
on the flannel lining will fall just across the top of the chest.
The scraps from the hood pattern are simply to show you
how the two hood pieces will fit when you double over the excess lining.

4) Cut 2 hood pieces from outer fabric and lining fabric. Mark notches with a 1/8” snip. [Note: the neck opening accommodates a head size up to 23". If your child will need a larger neck opening, taper the back neck seam out from the curve to the neck edge. Increase the neck opening by tracing around an 8 1/2” salad plate instead of the printable template].

Sew body of poncho

Note: Any time you sew two unlike fabrics together, it is especially important to practice on scraps. You need to work out the best combination to encourage your particular fabrics to cooperate. For example, I found my pair for the tutorial—a plastic-coated knit “utility fabric” and cotton flannel—worked best if I sewed with the flannel on top, pinning inside the seam allowances (and I rarely use pins). Your mileage may vary…test, test, test!

Practice with scraps cut from the fabrics as you squared up
your rectangles or cut out the hood pieces.

1) Pin layers right side together, running pins parallel to the cut edges and within ¼” of them.
Using a long stitch length, stitch both layers, right sides together, with a 1/4” seam. Leave an 8” opening on one short end for turning the layers right sides out. This will become the back edge. Be sure to backstitch at both ends of the opening.

2) Clip seam allowance at corners if necessary. Turn the poncho right sides out through the opening. Use your fingernail to crease the seam allowance at the opening to the inside.

3) Topstitch a scant ¼” in around the entire outer edge.

Sew hood

1) Sew left and right outer hood pieces right sides together. Use your thumbnail to press both seam allowances to one side. Repeat for the lining, but press seam allowances in the opposite each other (note: fleece will be bulky. You will need to cut down one of the seam allowances to reduce that bulk).

2) Meet hood and lining right sides together. The center seams should lock together where they meet because the seam allowances have been pressed in opposite directions. Sew around face opening with a 1/4” seam, turn right sides out, and topstitch.

3) Baste neck edge together a scant ¼” from the edge, wrong sides together, matching notches and using long stitches.

Attach hood

1) Fold poncho skirt lengthwise and mark the center line on the lining with disappearing markings. Measure 12” from the back edge and place the edge of the neck template pattern on this mark, centering it over the center line. Trace around the pattern, marking notches. Pin the layers together with pins IN THE CENTER of the circle you have made.

Notice the teeny white dots inside the soap-marked circle--these are the pin heads.
Pinning inside the circle keeps pin holes to a minimum, preventing leaks.
The soap sliver used to mark the fabric is highlighted with a red arrow.

Sew right on the traced circle with basting stitches. Cut out the inside of the circle, leaving a ¼” seam allowance inside your stitching (see the pattern if you are not sure where to trim). Clip notches 1/8” deep into the seam allowance.


2) Match center back of hood with center back marking on poncho, right sides together. Carefully pin hood inside seam allowance from the center back to the front matching clip at center front. Front edges should overlap about 1” at the center front. Stitch all the way around the neck edge using a ¼” seam allowance, stitching just outside the basting stitches.

Pin holes allow water to penetrate, so any pinning must be done
inside the seam allowances with pins running parallel to the edge.

3) Press all seam allowances out from the neck edge, using your thumbnail. Topstitch through all layers 1/8” from seam to secure seam allowances.

 For easiest, flattest, most accurate topstitching around the neck,
sew from the right side, checking underneath the seam often
to make sure it is catching under the needle.
Sew with the curve rather than stretching the seam straight.

Carefully trim any excess seam allowance next to the stitching, being careful not to nick the lining.



Attach snaps

1) The placement of snaps in the front corners of the poncho skirt gives you a custom fit that keeps the poncho in place around the legs. Measure across the front of the wheelchair’s leg supports and add 6-8” to that measurement for ease.

Mark half this measurement from the center fold, 2" up from the hem. Then fold the corner diagonally (along the red line in the diagram) to determine where the other half of the snap will be placed.

You might want to use office clips for a trial fit, and then mark the snap placement with a grease pencil on oilcloth/vinyl.

2) Attach the snaps 2” in from the hem edge at the place along the corner that makes the poncho fit your child’s lap. Important--be sure the working parts of the snap face out!

Notice how the ball and socket face away from the outer fabric.

When you snap the parts together, this forms a tuck behind the snap that creates the corner.

Create a tuck under the snap to make the corner that keeps the poncho snug against the lap.

If your child uses an extra tall headrest or wants more back protection for a motorized wheelchair, go ahead and add extra length to the back. You’ll need an extra 1 ¼ yard each of the outer fabric and flannel (or fleece) lining. Sewing the extra length to the back 12” down from the neck opening should put the seam where it is unlikely to get doused with the hardest rain.


That’s it! Now your child is ready to head out into the rain (or snow!). I'd love to hear how your poncho-sewing experience goes. Let me know if you have any questions.

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If this tutorial was helpful, you might also want to check out

Split-back Wheelchair Jacket

For Those Who Sew: Favorite Wheelchair Clothing Sewing Sites

If you sew, you have a tremendous gift that can greatly benefit the wheelchair user in your life. If you want to learn to sew, come on aboard! You’ll be glad you did.

Sewing gives you the opportunity to…

·       custom-create fashionable clothing that fits just right. You can incorporate details that make sitting or stretching more comfortable, dressing easier, and managing openings simpler. You can add special details that give secret access to stomas or give tons of extra pocket access for electronic devices …you name it!

·        have creative license over colors, fabrics, and details. It’s fun to design clothing that reflects the wearer’s personality!

·        save a dollar or two. Sewing is not the inexpensive hobby it once was, but garments you create yourself are often considerably less costly than those sewn for the small adaptive market.

With that in mind, may I present two fabulous online resources with you in mind!

The first is Fashion Freaks, with free sew-it-yourself clothing patterns for wheelchair users. This is the go-to site for developing your own customized wheelchair-friendly patterns based on basic patterns you can download from the site. While it is designed for adult women’s (XS to XXL) and men’s (S to XXL) clothing, it isn’t too difficult to scale the sizing down for children. Fashion Freaks provides the pattern pieces and complete instructions for sewing jackets (several styles), pants, and a skirt. All are designed with a seated wearer in mind. There are some helpful tips for making clothing fit and function better. You’ll also find a great section for sewing inspiration.

The second is a fact sheet full of terrific tips brought to you from the Disabled Living Foundation in London. It provides ideas for purchasing ready-to-wear garments with a wheelchair user in mind, as well as ideas for adapting commercial clothing. There are also some tips for adapting commercial sewing patterns to make them work more successfully for people who spend their days sitting.

If you know of other sites that offer tips for sewing clothing for wheelchair users, would you please share them? It would be great to share a nice little collection for people who want to sew for their family members who use wheelchairs. Thanks!

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The AbleData site isn't specific to home sewing, but lists a great number of ready-made adaptive clothing sites you might be able to use for inspiration. Scroll down the the "clothing" section to find the categories that would be useful to you. There are some really creative designers out there! 

Split-back Wheelchair Jacket

With winter sneaking up on us in the Northern Hemisphere, the time seems right to show you how to adapt a purchased jacket for wheelchair users. I hope I'm catching you in time for the cold weather where you live!

Normally, I like to use dressing as an opportunity to stretch tight arm and shoulder muscles. I resisted adapting my daughter's coats for a long time just for this reason. However, rushing to catch the morning school bus is NOT the time to be hurrying stiff limbs! The split in the back of these wheelchair jackets reduces the amount of stretching and the risk of injury.

The split-back jacket opens up the back just up to the bottom of the collar/hood. The collar slips behind the child's neck, his arms go into the sleeves, and then the back is closed. Opening the front of the jacket makes it easier to slip arms into the sleeves, but it isn't necessary.

The sewing skills and equipment are very basic. You should be able to complete this project in less than an evening.

The fabric and filling of your jacket make a big difference in ease of sewing. Sweatshirt fleece and PolarFleece are very easy to work with. Denim is only difficult where multiple layers cross at seams. Quilted fiberfill batting is fairly easy but loose filling (such as down or the loose cotton fluff in the white jacket used in the tutorial) is more complicated (and therefore, more time-consuming).

First, the DISCLAIMER:  I recommend trying this technique on an outgrown sweatshirt or junker jacket before cutting into a jacket you value. You can use scrap fabric and skip both the interfacing and Velcro during your practice. The point is to see if the split-back design works for your child. It also builds your confidence with the sewing technique so you won't get sweaty hands during the actual project. I will
do my best to step out the process, but the final results are up to you.

Now, without further ado, the tutorial...

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You will need:

--Purchased jacket (it should be slightly generous in size to make up for the ½” you’ll lose around the chest)

--Sew-in Velcro, approximately 1 yard (you won't use the whole amount, but you will always have use for the extra, so don’t worry about buying more than you need for this project)

--Coordinating cotton fabric, 3-6” wide, prewashed and ironed

--Lightweight iron-on interfacing



1) Draw a line on the center back of the jacket starting 1” below the neck seam to the hem edge. Use a wash-away pen, disappearing marker, or for dark fabrics, tailor’s chalk or a sliver of bar soap to draw your lines.



Soap markings on purple PolarFleece, showing 1" below collar seam

 

Measure this line and write it down.



2) Prepare the underlap by cutting a 3” strip of fabric the length of the line down the center back minus 1.5” (line length - 1.5" = _____). Iron a piece of fusible interfacing to the back. At both short ends, fold right sides together and sew a ¼” seam just along the two short ends.

Turn right sides out, neatening the corners. Match the edges neatly along the length and press flat. 

3) Prepare facing using one of two methods:

            a. Cut a 3"-wide strip of coordinating fabric 3” longer than the line you drew down the jacket back (line length + 3" = ____). Cut a piece of interfacing the same dimensions and fuse to the back of the strip following manufacturer’s directions. Finish the edges by serging (my favorite), zigzagging, or trimming with pinking shears.

            b. Cut a 3.5"-wide strip of coordinating fabric 3.5” longer than the line on the back of the jacket (line length + 3.5" = _____). Cut fusible interfacing the same size. DO NOT fuse just yet. Lay the strips together with the fabric right side meeting the NON-glue side of the interfacing. Sew with a ¼” seam allowance around 3 sides, leaving one short end open.

Trim corners and turn right sides out, smoothing seam allowances and fuse interfacing down. Topstitch around all three sides. 

Turn under the unfinished edge ¼” and topstitch to hold it down. This makes for a neatly finished facing strip (my second favorite method, used when I’m too lazy to change thread colors in the serger).

4) Mark the back of the facing with a line down center, starting 1” below one end (if using the facing is sewn and turned, it should be the enclosed end rather than the folded one) and continuing to the other edge. For the purposes of the tute, I also marked stitching lines 1/4" on either side of this line...you can do this or not.

5) Lay the facing on the back of the jacket, right sides together, matching up the lines. Pin in place, spacing the pins 2-3” apart and running exactly along the line. At the hem edge, fold the excess facing to the inside. Make sure there is no slack where the facing folds under.

6) On the left side of the jacket back, slip the raw edge of the underlap between the facing and the jacket. Center it 1 1/4” below the top of the line and 3/4” above the hem edge. Butt the raw edge of the underlap tight up against the pins; the folded edge should come right to the finished edge of the facing. Pin securely.

7) Starting at the hem edge, backstitch and then sew ¼” down one side of the line.

About 2” from the end of the line near the neck, begin to taper towards the tip, shortening the stitch length (I've marked this with green marker in the photo). Pivot, gradually taper back to ¼” from the line, and sew down the opposite side of the line. Reinforce the tapered point by stitching over the previous stitching for the 2” that makes the taper.

8) Control the bulk from the seam allowances and strengthen the stitching by sewing a narrow zigzag on either side of the line, staying between the line and your previous stitching line. I especially like a double zigzag for this (takes an extra stitch in the middle of each zig and zag, making an especially flat and professional stitch). The stitching won’t fit in the tapered point, but that’s fine because you already reinforced it by stitching twice (you did, didn't you?). If the jacket you are adapting has a loose lining, be sure to check underneath regularly as you zigzag that you aren't catching the lining in your stitching (do you hear the voice of unfortunate experience speaking?).

9) Cut along the line from the hem edge to the tapered point. Cut right up to, but not through, the point. Turn the facing to the middle and press and  flatten the seam allowance with your fingers (don’t use any iron on any jacket unless you know beyond a shadow of a doubt that it won’t melt).

10) Pin hook-side Velcro along “public” side of underlap (the side facing away from the child). If your winters are harsh, use a solid strip the full length of the underlap. Where winters are mild, you can increase the jacket's ability to move with the body by cutting the Velcro in 3" pieces. Place a strip at the neck edge, one at the hem, and 1-3 more along the center edge (the number is determined by the size of the jacket) with approximately 1.5 – 2” between strips. Stitch strips to the underlap with a zigzag.

Pin matching strip/strips of loop-side (soft) Velcro on the loose facing on the right side of the jacket, matching the placement with the hook-side Velcro. Zigzag in place.

10) Arrange the facing neatly to the inside of the jacket and pin. Lengthen your stitch to a 3.0-3.5 and topstitch along the fold.

For flat jackets, on the outer right half of the opening, stitch down the outer edge of the facing. If this side of the facing pulls when the jacket is worn, sew a third line between the topstitching and outer stitching, running right through the soft Velcro to anchor the facing even more firmly. For “puffy coats” with vertical quilting, topstitch along the inner edge of the opening as before. Then, instead of sewing the facing down along its outer edge, stitch vertically through the facing, going right through the quilting lines.

Hand stitch the open edge of the facing to the jacket lining on the inside.

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There you go! Now you have a toasty warm jacket that is quick and easy to slip onto your children as they head out the door in their wheelchair. If you have any questions about the directions, please don't hesitate to drop me a comment or a note. I'm happy to clarify!

Inside of cold weather jacket